If you’re an avid fan of walking holidays or pilgrimage walks, then you’ve probably heard of Japan’s Kumano Kodo. This network of trails winding through Japan’s sacred Kii Peninsula beckons travelers seeking a spiritual journey or a deep immersion in nature. Eric and I walked the Kumano Kodo on a 6-day self-guided tour with Oku Japan in March 2024, and we’re going to share our thoughts on that experience. We’ll also equip you with the information you need to plan your own pilgrimage, whether you choose to go it alone or with a guided tour.
What is the Kumano Kodo?
The paths followed by Kumano Kodo are ancient. For more than a thousand years, this region south of the old capitals of Kyoto and Nara has been a destination for pilgrims seeking blessings and solace in the mist-shrouded mountains. A network of trails developed around what is known as the Kumano Sanzan Shrines, which were registered in 2004 as UNESCO World Heritage sites.
The Kumano Sanzan Shrines
- Kumano Hongu Taisha
- Kumano Hayatama Taisha (my least favorite)
- Kumano Nachi Taisha (my personal favorite)
Also included in the UNESCO list of protected sites are the temples at Koyasan and Yoshino/Omine. If you have time to add a visit to these, especially Koyasan, we HIGHLY recommend it! We tried to add a night in Koyasan but lodging was already booked and transportation was going to be a challenge.
Planning your Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage
Before you book a flight to Japan, you need to decide which route you want to walk and what distances you are willing to walk each day. Even if you know you want a guided tour, you should be aware of the options before choosing a tour operator.
Kumano Kodo Routes
The Kumano Kodo isn’t just one path, but a network of trails catering to different preferences. The Nakahechi Route is the most popular and the one you’ll see covered by most travel companies because it is the most well-developed with excellent accommodation options. Our itinerary with Oku Japan included sections of Kiiji and Nakahechi.
Nakahechi Route
This is the classic Kumano Kodo experience, followed by emperors and commoners alike for centuries. It traverses through the heart of the Kii Peninsula, offering well-maintained paths, mountain villages with traditional guesthouses and hot spring onsens, and a gradual ascent towards the sacred Kumano Shrines. It is the easiest hiking route to plan inn to inn but can be overwhelming as there are alternate routes and lots of options. Daily distances range from 2-9mi (4-14km) with some steep ascents/descents.
Kohechi Route
This one is for the backpackers and mountain enthusiasts! The Kohechi cuts a more rugged path through the mountainous center of the peninsula. Expect steeper climbs, breathtaking vistas, and a deeper sense of solitude on this challenging yet rewarding trek. It crosses 3 mountain passes of over 3,280 ft (1,000m) elevation and takes 4 days to end with the magical temples of Koyasan. Daily distances range from 6-11mi (10-18km) with steep ascents/descents.
Iseji Route
As someone who loves coastal hikes, this is the route I would have preferred to walk. This path winds along the eastern shores of the Kii Peninsula, connecting the revered Ise Grand Shrine with the Kumano Sanzan Shrines. Expect quaint fishing villages, cobblestone paths, tea farms and ocean breeze. It’s the longest route at roughly 106mi (170km) and can take anywhere from 1-2 weeks to complete.
Ohechi Route
This is truly an off-the-beaten-path route along the southern coastline of Wakayama Prefecture, with stunning views of the sea and fishing towns rarely visited by outsiders. The path isn’t fully developed as a thru-hike and signage isn’t as good here. At this time only 3 sections are recommended, connecting Kii-Tonda to Mirozu for a total of 23mi (37km). Following the Arrows has a quick travel diary of their 4-day hike on Ohechi so you get an idea of logistics.
Kiiji Route
Considered the historical entry point to Kumano Kodo, Kiiji follows the western coast south from Tanabe. It offers a gentler coastal experience with visits to cultural gems like Yuasa (birthplace of Japanese soy sauce) and industrial port towns. It merges with Nakahechi, which is why companies like to include both routes in their itineraries, offering you a chance for both coastal and inland walking. Kansai Odyssey has a good breakdown of this 103mi (165km) route from Osaka to Tanabe.
Omine Okugake Route
For those seeking a truly immersive spiritual journey, the Omine Okugake Route beckons. This 60mi (95km) path incorporates a challenging climb to Mt. Omine, a sacred mountain revered by both Shinto and Buddhist traditions. This route is a training path for those who follow the ascetic practices of Shugendo. Random Wire has a thorough guide for trekking Omine Okugake, including notes about recent bear attacks and sections that don’t allow women.
Transportation for Kumano Kodo
The closest international airport to begin your Kumano Kodo journey, regardless of route, is Osaka’s Kansai International Airport. Many visitors arrive via Tokyo and that’s fine too, just keep in mind the additional travel time and expense.
Japan’s excellent train and bus services are one of the reasons Kumano Kodo is the perfect choice for self-guided walking tours. Services are reliable, easy to search using Google Maps, buses and trains are clean and comfortable, and staff are friendly and helpful.
One of the things I liked most about Oku Japan’s route notes was that they offered multiple transit options on days where we had some flexibility. They did the research for us, listing exact bus routes/times/cost, and all we had to do was choose. This was perfect for days when weather was bad or we simply didn’t feel like walking as much.
Most buses are not covered by rail passes and you may even be using some non-JR trains, so we don’t suggest purchasing a JR Pass unless you will be extending your trip to cities like Osaka, Kyoto or Tokyo. If traveling during high season, you should purchase train tickets (especially for Express and Shinkansen high speed trains) in advance.
For our travel in Japan, we used an ICOCA card for our pre-Kumano trip to Kyoto and neighborhoods. From Kyoto, our train tickets were purchased in advance by Oku Japan and all we had to do was have coins for the buses during our Kumano Kodo walking days. Oku Japan provided return train tickets to the airport.
Accommodations on Kumano Kodo
Depending on which route you choose, you should have multiple options for accommodations, including:
- Ryokan – can be large or small inns, with hot spring onsens and elaborate dinners; more expensive but well worth it if you choose a good one
- Minshuku – small traditional guesthouses that feel more informal and have less elaborate dinners; less costly and may offer a more personal experience with hosts
- Shukubo – temple lodging; food, prices and amenities can vary greatly
- Camping – free camping isn’t allowed along Kumano Kodo but there are some campsites that can be reserved through Kumano Travel.
If booking accommodations on your own, start with these sites:
- Kumano Kodo Accommodations for lodging on Kumano Kodo routes
- Japanese Guesthouses for traditional stays in Mt. Koya, Nara or Kyoto
- Japanican, Agoda or Booking for hotels in the cities
We found our best deals by searching Google Maps and booking directly with local hotels. You can do this with guesthouses too, just be prepared to use Google Translate. This is where booking through a travel company makes your life so much easier!
Luggage Transfers on Kumano Kodo
Let’s talk about luggage. With traditional European inn to inn hiking, you are typically guaranteed to have daily luggage transport included in your tour. That is not the case in Japan. Booking your trip with Kumano Travel gives you an option to add daily luggage transfers from inn to inn. Most companies suggest leaving your primary luggage at your arrival hotel in the city and only carrying a small daypack with a change of clothes and toiletries for your days on Kumano Kodo.
We took the 2nd option because that is what Oku Japan told us to do, and I personally think it’s the wiser choice. It’s more eco-friendly, cheaper, less complicated and most rooms are tiny so you don’t want huge pieces of luggage. I fit everything I needed for 6 days of hiking into a 20oz daypack and was perfectly fine. Granted, we were hiking in the winter so our clothes didn’t get sweaty or stinky, so that may be an issue for you during the warmer months. We began and ended with different cities, so we used Japan’s excellent takkyubin service and our luggage was waiting for us when we arrived in Wakayama City.
DIY and Navigating the Kumano Kodo
If you want to plan your own Kumano Kodo tour, this is fairly easy to do with time and effort. You will find most everything you need at the official Kumano Kodo site. Maps, lists of accommodations, transportation and shuttle services, and downloadable audio tour guides. They also provide excellent videos on their YouTube channel. What you won’t find are easy to plan itineraries, nor will you find the Kiiji or Omine Routes.
When you are ready to make reservations, visit Kumano Travel which is operated by the local tourism bureau and is a community-based initiative designed to ensure that Kumano accommodations don’t become overwhelmed by demand. Their online reservation services include accommodations, tours, local guides, luggage transfers and sample itineraries. You will also see updated trail closures on their site. Unfortunately, they focus almost entirely on Nakahechi and the accommodations listed on their site are limited.
Our Recommended Tour Operators
Several reputable companies offer Kumano Kodo tours. They handle logistics, provide knowledgeable guides or walking notes, and ensure a smooth experience. Our preferred tour operators for Kumano Kodo include:
Kumano Travel is the local tour operator on the ground, so booking with them keeps your travel dollars local and you’ll have more options for customization. With all of those options comes work on your part, however. You’ll need to do some research, have an idea of what you want to walk and the types of lodging you’re comfortable with.
Oku Japan earns our TRUSTED WALK badge because we personally walked their 6-day self-guided Kumano Kodo tour. They chose the perfect accommodations for what we wanted, the route notes were easy and informative, and their booking process and communication were flawless.
Something to note for Oku Japan: they only offer the packaged tours you see on their site. They don’t customize extra days if you want to visit other cities that aren’t covered in one of their tours. If you want to add something custom, contact us. We can act as your travel advisor to book extra days onto your itinerary.
Walk Japan is an equally good choice, especially for small group guided tours on Kumano Kodo.
Boutique Japan is a luxury tailor-made travel agency that can design a completely customized trip that includes Kumano Kodo. A pricey option, starting at minimum $1,000/pp per day, but it’s one way to get everything you want when you can’t find a packaged tour that fits.
Kumano Kodo FAQs
What is a Dual Pilgrim?
If you have completed the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage (or plan to), you have the opportunity to earn a “Dual Pilgrim” certificate when completing the Kumano Kodo. Like the Camino de Santiago, Kumano Kodo has several routes and rules that determine whether or not you have completed the route. Passport credentials can be obtained at the Kii-Tanabe Station or Kumano Hongu Heritage Center and you’ll find stamps along the route in little wooden houses.
To earn a Kumano Kodo certificate, you must walk:
- Takijiri-oji to Kumano Hongu Taisha (~38km) or
- Kumano Nachi Taisha to/from Kumano Hongu Taisha on foot (~30km) or
- Hosshinmon-oji to Kumano Hongu Taisha on foot (~7km) + a visit to Kumano Hayatama Taisha and Kumano Nachi Taisha or
- Koyasan to Kumano Hongu Taisha on foot (~65km)
What food can I expect on Kumano Kodo?
Breakfast will almost always be included in your accommodation fee and it will usually consist of rice, miso soup, tofu, rolled omelot (tamagoyaki ), fish (which might be grilled/tempura/raw), seasonal vegetables, seaweed and other local ingredients. Tea, coffee and local fruit juices may also be served.
Packed lunches will either be sandwiches (often boiled egg or fried chicken cutlet with plum sauce), flavored rice balls (onigiri), or bento boxes with an assortment of “surprises.”
Dinners are a new universe! You never know what you will be served, but know that it will be the freshest ingredients you’ve probably ever eaten (unless you grew up on a farm). And your meal will be served as if it is a performance, perfectly timed and beautifully presented. Expect sashimi, tempura, local vegetables, hot pots for boiling vegetables/tofu/fish/beef, and something sweet (most likely involving fruit). Most establishments will offer specialty drinks at an additional cost (sake, beer, plum wine).
You won’t find western-style eateries in the small towns. Larger towns such as Tanabe, Hongu, Shingu and Kii-Katsuura will have more options. And to answer the chopstick question – yes, you need to practice using chopsticks because that is what they will give you. Hotels may provide both but you should genuinely attempt to use them before asking for a fork.
Oku Japan thoroughly prepared us for what to expect in terms of food and drink along the Kumano Kodo and they ensured all of our accommodations knew that Eric was allergic to nuts. Of course, knowledge doesn’t equal experience and in the case of Japanese cuisine that is definitely true! The best way to prepare yourself for the food here is to arrive with an open mind and trust that your innkeepers will provide you with high quality, wholesome food. It might be strange to your palette, but you will not starve! Food was honestly the highlight of our trip!
What is the etiquette for onsens?
I won’t tell you, I’ll show you. Watch this quick video and you’ll know everything you need to know (almost). To clarify the different types of onsens:
- Shared/Public Onsens are communal baths that are separated by gender. These can be indoor or outdoor and sometimes both. This is the most common type.
- Private Onsens are indoor or outdoor baths that you and whoever you wish to join you can use privately. This is the only way you’ll be able to share an onsen experience with the opposite gender.
- Public Onsens that allow all genders are rare, but they do exist. These will most likely allow bathing suits
A few questions the video doesn’t answer:
- What do I do with my towels? Leave the large one in your locker/basket with clothes, it’s for drying. Bring the small towel into the cleaning area and when you get in the bath, place it on your head or on the wet floor near you.
- Do I need to bring my own water? Water tanks with small cups are usually provided but they are often outside of the bath, so we suggest bringing a bottle if you plan to soak awhile.
- What if I’m on my period? The answer isn’t pretty but it is possible if you use a period cup that holds everything and doesn’t show a string like tampons do. Blood is taboo in most cultures, so it’s really a case of “will they know?” Only you can judge whether or not you’re comfortable attempting it. Purists will say “absolutely not” but I read several Japanese blogs where women use this workaround.
- Do women actually get ready in the onsens? Yes, even in hotels with private bathrooms, you will see women drying their hair and applying makeup in the onsen toiletry area.
- Can I shave in the onsen? Nope, that is considered a private grooming ritual and one that leaves a mess. Save that for when you have a private bathroom.
Is it difficult if I don’t speak Japanese?
Absolutely not! As long as you have a phone with Google Translate, you’ll be able to communicate with anyone and read any sign. Everyone we met in Japan was happy to use technology to communicate with us. Some things might get lost in translation, but that’s part of the fun!
Will I need internet?
Yes, you will want internet during the day when you’re out walking and using public transportation. We use Google Fi but others get a local SIM card or bring a portable WiFi hotspot.
Ok, last bit of advice. We’ve given you the tools you need to start planning your own Kumano Kodo pilgrimage, which may seem overwhelming at first. Just keep things simple, don’t try to overthink things or try to prepare yourself for every scenario. Go with an open heart and an open mind, leave room for Japan to fill the gaps.
“The Japanese aesthetic is less about accumulation than subtraction, so that whatever remains is everything.” ~ Pico Iyer
For more details and inspiration, pop over to our Travel Diary and start with Planning a Trip to Japan’s Kansai.
