The Wild Atlantic Way is no stranger to any traveler beguiled by rugged coastline and coastal villages, but for walkers seeking an escape from the tourist throngs, a hidden gem awaits: Clare Island. Nestled off the coast of County Mayo, Clare Island offers a slower pace, a chance to truly immerse yourself in the beauty and history of the Irish west. Forget the whirlwind day trip – Clare Island deserves a multi-day stay to fully explore its walking trails and unveil its magic.
We spent 10 days on the island, walking every path we could find and learning about the people and history of Clare Island. So trust us when we say, it’s worth visiting for more than a day.
A Car Free Island Escape
Getting to the island requires a short ferry ride from Roonagh Pier in County Mayo. The drive to Roonagh itself is a treat, offering stunning views of Clew Bay and passing right under Croagh Patrick, one of Ireland’s most beloved mountains. While a car makes it easier, it’s not necessary. We flew to Dublin, took a train to Westport and caught a ride to Roonagh. Taxis are available in Westport, as is a shuttle that can be scheduled through the ferry company. Once on the island, you won’t need a car. Most everything is within walking distance and there is a taxi service available when it’s not. Visit ClareIsland.info for more information.
A Rambler's Paradise
Clare Island offers 5 excellent walks, ranging from easy to challenging, all offering stunning coastal views and quiet paths that feel far removed from the modern world. You’ll find a map and more details for most of these trails HERE.
Fawnglass Loop
1.9mi (3km)
The moderate Fawnglass Loop is perfect for a gentle introduction to the island. It’s close to the harbor and offers a good balance of sea views and serene pastures. We visited in April during lambing season and this walk was especially delightful because of the newborn lamps.
Knockmore Hill & Signal Tower
6.2mi (10km)
Feeling more adventurous? Hike to the top of Knockmore, Clare Island’s highest point at 1,516 ft (462m) and continue over the hill towards a signal tower before circling back to town. This is a challenging climb with a steep ascent and unmarked, sometimes boggy terrain, but it’s worth the effort! Your reward is breathtaking 360-degree views of the island, surrounding islands and the Wild Atlantic coastline. It’s a long walk so hire a taxi or ask your accommodation host to drive you to the starting point. Our innkeeper tried to bamboozle us into walking from town but I knew he was full of malarkey.
Lighthouse Walk
5.5mi (8.8km) there and back
This walk takes you from the main village near the Community Center to a lighthouse, which is now privately owned so you may only be able to get a glimpse of it through the gates. It’s an easy to moderate walk on well-defined roads that offers excellent views of neighboring Achill Island, salmon farms and stark landscapes interspersed with farming communities.
Knocknaveena Loop
1.9mi (3km)
If you have to skip one trail this is the one we’d skip, but only because you’ll have already walked part of it on the other routes. This loop is an excellent walk that takes you past the slightly shorter hill of Knocknaveena to Clare Abbey and connects with Fawnglass and Poirtin Whinch.
Poirtin Whinch Loop
(3.3km)
You won’t find this trail listed on any official sites but it does exist and it was our favorite walk on Clare Island! Following the road as if going towards the lighthouse, you will see a sign for it on the left once you’ve left the main town. It takes you to a pond and two archaeological sites: a 5,500 year old megalithic tomb (Porteen Finoish) and a 2,500 year old Bronze age cooking site (Fulacht Fiadh). The best part of the walk, in my opinion, is just past these sites when you walk through a field of green rolling mounds. This is a famine field and once through it you connect with the Fawnglass Loop which takes you back into town or the Knocknaveena Loop which takes you to the abbey.
You can spot a famine field by its symmetrical rows of mounded earth where potatoes were once grown before blight destroyed the crops and ushered in the Great Famine of 1845-52. An estimated 1 million people died in Ireland and another million left the country during this time.
A Haven for Slow Travelers
As with so many islands, time slows down on Clare Island. There are no bustling towns, just small settlements, friendly locals and the ever-present rhythm of the ocean. Unplug, reconnect with nature, and let your walking pace dictate your day. And if you don’t feel like walking, rent an electric bike (we know the owner, he’s a nice guy). Did we mention that Clare Island has a designated Blue Flag beach? Besides excellent swimming you can also rent a SUP board or take a boat ride for some sea angling.
Where to Rest Your Head
Opt for an historic family-run B&B or a self-catering cottage. We stayed with the McCabe family at the Granuaile House, which has been hosting locals and visitors alike for over a century. Perfectly situated directly on the beach and next to the ferry, you can’t ask for a better location. Sea Breeze B&B is also a good option. The Clare Island Lighthouse, while not ideal for exploring the island on foot, is a good choice for those who want a true escape. If you’re planning a group retreat, Bay View House sleeps 24 and you get the entire house which has beautiful views overlooking the bay. You’ll find several house rentals on Clare Island’s official site but make sure you bring food from the mainland with you.
Finding Food on Clare Island
Ah yes, the food situation. I must confess to having a food scarcity phobia. Not sure if it’s genetic trauma passed down to me from my Irish ancestors, but I do get nervous when food options are limited. And unfortunately, that is the case with Clare Island anytime outside of summer months. From June through August you’ll be fine, any other month and you’ll need to bring food with you from the mainland. O’Malley’s Foodstore offers a limited selection but it’s an hour walk there and back from the main village.
Anchor Bar & Bistro
The Anchor Bar & Bistro, housed in the Community Center, offers lunch and dinner daily during the summer months and dinner only on weekends during the rest of the year. This is the hub for social life on Clare Island.
Clare Island Oven
Clare Island Oven provides excellent coffee brews and baked goods for lunch and stone oven pizzas for dinner (on request). They’re located directly across from the ferry. If you go, say hello to Alice for me – she’s one of my favorite people on the island!
Stone Barn Cafe
A little further from the main village you’ll find Stone Barn Cafe, serving vegetarian and vegan-friendly lunches and group dinners on request. Anyone serious about fresh produce and locally-sourced foods will want to eat at this organic farm. They also offer cooking classes, yoga retreats, farming internships and intellectual conversation.
Clare Island is one of those places I hesitate to even write about, lest it become too popular and lose some of its magic, but I don’t think this will happen. The limited options for lodging and food, plus the fact that ferries are required to get here, helps ensure a manageable number of visitors. It takes some effort to get here and requires some pre-planning, all of which is well worth it for the rewards of having an island like this to explore on foot. Ten days wasn’t enough for Eric and I, we’re already planning a return trip!
Want more photos and stories of our time on the island? Read Changing Our Mindset with a Clare Island HelpX.
