Continuing our series on the people behind inn to inn hiking in the United States, this week we look to sunny California where a walk on the rugged coastline inspired one man to put an idea into action.
Meet California's inn to inn hiking creator
Tom Courtney is the founder of Walkabout California, the site that launched inn to inn hiking in the golden state. Tom has created twenty self-guided routes and written two books detailing these routes. He provides everything you need to plan your own DIY trip. Over the years these routes have been picked up by tour operators so there are now several options for inn to inn hiking in California.
We’ve walked one of Tom’s routes and followed his stories for years. He embodies the independent spirit that is so common in those who create new trails and he shares his routes in a way that is very personal. As you can see in our interview below, he willingly gives his time and words to share his passion for walking.
When did you create Walkabout California?
Tom: The first inn to inn route I created was a four day, 41 mile trek along the Marin Coast in
2005. This eventually led to separate self-guided routes and two books: Walkabout
Northern California: Hiking Inn to Inn and Walkabout Malibu to Mexico: Hiking Inn to Inn
on the Southern California Coast.
What prompted you to create the route?
Tom: Years ago, I hiked from inn to inn in the Cotswolds of England and I loved it. I wondered if that kind of hiking was possible in the US. One day I was hiking in the Marin Headlands, across the Golden Gate Bridge from San Francisco, and I reached the crest of Wolf Ridge. Looking North along the coast, I could see all the way to Point Reyes National Seashore 35 miles away. I could see no buildings, just the rugged Pacific Coastline, open grassland bluffs and redwood forests climbing the western flank of Mt. Tamalpais. I wondered, “Could I hike all the way to Pt. Reyes? Could I stay in inns along the way?” I went home, pulled out the maps and started making reservations.
How much work goes into creating and maintaining an inn to inn route?
Tom: I am always looking for new ideas for routes and I hike a lot through the mountains and along
the Coast of California. Many of the best ideas come from innkeepers, bartenders, wait staff and
other locals along the way. Developing a new route usually requires several research trips by car
and on foot and reading about the history, topography and geology of the area. Then I hike the
route. All of that is the fun part. For me, the work starts with the writing and promotion.
What advice would you give to someone trying to develop a new inn to inn hike?
Tom: Start with places you love to hike and explore. Hike the route yourself. Take your time and
immerse yourself. Read everything you can about the area. Talk to innkeepers, restaurant and
tavern workers and patrons. Get to know your route on a deep level and share that experience
with others.
What do you like about walking holidays?
Tom: Backpackers know the joys of a multi-day hike but sometimes you just don’t want to sleep on the ground. [With inn hiking], each day ends with a comfortable bed, a hot shower, a good meal and perhaps even a therapeutic massage or a soak in a hot spring.
Read more on why Tom loves walking holidays in his article The Joys of a Multi-Day Hike from Inn to Inn.
Do you have a favorite walking holiday?
Tom: This form of hiking is well established in Europe and there are hundreds of routes. Two of my favorites are hiking from hill town to hill town in Tuscany, exploring farmland and forest, walking the quiet streets of ancient villages, meeting locals and enjoying the famous wines and cuisine. The other was a hike from hut to hut in Slovenia’s Julian Alps. We hiked in Triglav National Park, a land of raging rivers, crystalline lakes, alpine meadows and soaring peaks. Each day ended with a comfortable bed, a glass of beer and a dinner of goulash and sausage.
Do you have a walking holiday story you’d like to share?
Tom: I took an easy four day, 30 mile walkabout from San Francisco to Half Moon Bay. The first day was a long one, 14.5 miles, and I was happy to reach the Pacifica Beach Hotel. It had taken me a leisurely seven hours. A soak in the Jacuzzi bathtub with the sound of the waves pounding outside my balcony was a great way to end a day of hiking. The neighboring restaurant, Puerto 27, was quiet that evening and I dined at the bar on a rich Peruvian paella, salad and a glass of pinot grigio while happily watching the National League playoffs.
The bartender, Paul, was from Thailand, slightly graying with a big smile and a gentle voice. He had been a monk before he came to California thirty years ago. As a Buddhist, he still meditates daily. I forgot about the game as we talked for a few hours about Buddhism and Christianity, the spiritual and psychic benefits of meditation and walking, and of life in Thailand and the US. He was excited about hiking inn to inn.
“Breathe deeply as you walk. If you are Christian, breathe in thinking, ‘Jesus.’ Breath out, ‘Christ.’ You will feel connected to the earth and to God.” ~Paul
In the morning I ran into Paul on my way to get coffee. He said, “Remember to breathe while you walk and think, it is a great day to be alive.” We stood in the parking lot and shared a few deep breaths of cool ocean breeze. It was truly a great day to be alive.
Walkabout California
Good to know:
- Purchase a single route ($6.99) or one of the eBooks which includes several routes ($15.95). If your library has Hoopla you can get these books for free!
- Books include detailed daily walking notes, suggested lodging and dining, descriptions of the area and basic maps
- This is Do-It-Yourself: book your own lodging, find your own food, carry your own backpack, find your own transportation
We used the Northern California book to hike Marin Headlands to Pt. Reyes. Read our Hostel Coyotes in Marin County for a funny start to that trip.
Read our review of Walkabout California, the original choice for inn to inn hiking in California.
